This Saturday was a particularly cold one. It was the sort of evening that begins prematurely, now that the sun goes down just after four. That signature Edinburgh wind was particularly unforgiving — sneaking its way under my layers, and I was definitely coming down with something.
Our plan to chance upon somewhere for a warm supper was seeming less and less likely, we’d been walking for about an hour and the places we’d turned up at were all, inexplicably, closed. A stiff drink was needed.
It was starting to drizzle, and as I glanced up to gauge whether a downpour was impending, a dimly lit shop sign caught my eye: ‘Zero/Zero,’ it read.
Inside was low-lit and quiet, moody — but not uninviting. The dark green walls and pillar candles created a cosy refuge from the evening gloom outside.
Zero/Zero is a brand new natural wine bar on South Clerk Street, a lovely addition to the Newington scene. ‘Chilled vibes & good times’ are promised — and delivered. The focus here is on the ‘philosophy of wine making,’ offering wines in their ‘purest form.’ It seemed like a good bet for an aperitif.
I am by no means a wine connoisseur. Despite being Glaswegian, I’m truthfully not much of a drinker. I don’t mean to be a traitor to my heritage, but there it is.
I often feel intimidated at a bar, where everyone else seems to know what to order — but not at Zero/Zero. The menu is straightforward, the bartender approachable, and the intimate scale makes for a welcoming atmosphere.
At first, it was just us and the owner, Craig. He cranked up the heating and the music, and my fingers, rigid from the cold, began to thaw.
I selected Baglio Antico Bianco on his recommendation, a tasty orange wine which warmed my cockles instantly. I can only describe the flavour as musty — but in a decidedly pleasant way. There was a slightly cidery taste, and the bottle was simple but pretty. Such things please me — I did say I wasn’t much of a connoisseur.
Zero/Zero has a tipple for everyone. The menu features: whites, ‘pinks’, reds, oranges and bubbles, and there’s cider as well. Sober guests are welcome too, there are plenty of softs, and a tasteful selection of bar snacks is also available. Choose from a cheese board from local I.J Mellis, or a selection of East Coast charcuterie. There are ‘pickled goods’ as well as bread and butter, and coffees for after. There was also an endless supply of water, scrupulously replenished by Craig and minimising the risk of a hangover. Win-win.
Craig first tried natural wine 6 years ago, and said he was ‘blown away by how vibrant and alive they were,’ vowing never to drink a conventional wine again.
“So much character, life and soul is removed from wines, whereas natural wine makers ensure that their wines showcase everything. Being good for the planet and easier for the body to process is a great bonus.”
Zero/Zero opened up last month, selling wines that are produced with zero added yeasts and zero added sulfur — hence the name. Craig hopes that the name will twig natural wine lovers, who will instantly be able to tell that the wines available here are natural. For newcomers, Craig describes the name as ‘a great talking point’ and his bar as the ideal place to start discovering natural wines.
In terms of future plans, keep a close watch on Zero/Zero’s Instagram for wine tastings (tbc) and some big Christmas events.
At Zero/Zero, Craig hopes to offer ‘a chilled neighbourhood space for people to come and drink great wine’ I’d say objective achieved.
